Mara River to Mnemba

A quarter of a million animals stack up on the bank and refuse to move. Then one goes, and the river turns to noise. You will hear it before you photograph it. Two days later you lift off Kogatende in a balloon at first light, tracking the whole herd from 300 metres and landing to a fired breakfast. Then salt air. Stone Town's carved doors, clove drying on the roadside, and an atoll where the reef starts fifteen strokes from the sand.

Best months

Late July to mid-October. The herds hold in the northern Serengeti between Kogatende and Lamai and cross the Mara River repeatedly in both directions, with August and September the reliable window. Zanzibar's long dry season runs June to October, which gives calm water and strong visibility on the Mnemba atoll at the same time.

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Serengeti National Park, Kogatende and Lamai

Day by day.

• Day 1 Arusha

  Arrival and repack

  Kilimanjaro International arrival and 50-minute transfer to Legendary Lodge. Repack into soft bags at 15 kg for the light aircraft legs. Guide briefing over dinner on the estate lawn.

• Day 2 Northern Serengeti

  Fly north to the Mara

  Coastal Aviation Arusha to Kogatende, roughly two hours with one stop. Transfer to Sayari Camp near the river. Afternoon drive to the Kogatende crossing points, reading herd build-up.

• Day 3 Kogatende

  Wait out the crossing

  Full day parked on the Mara River with packed breakfast and lunch. Crossings are unpredictable and can take six hours to trigger. Crocodile and hippo hold the channel throughout.

• Day 4 Kogatende

  Balloon at first light

  Dawn lift-off over the northern plains, roughly one hour aloft, landing to a full bush breakfast. Afternoon drive for the Nyasirori and Wogakuria kopje lion prides.

• Day 5 Lamai Wedge

  Cross to the border country

  Move to Singita Mara River Tented Camp in the Lamai Wedge, six canvas tents on the riverbank. Afternoon drive along the Lamai plateau for elephant, giraffe and eland.

• Day 6 Lamai Wedge

  Walk the Kuria Hills

  Guided walking safari with an armed guide into the Kuria Hills, reading tracks and plant use. Afternoon on standby at the river for a second crossing attempt.

• Day 7 Zanzibar

  Fly the coast to Stone Town

  Auric Air direct Kogatende to Zanzibar, under two hours. Transfer to Emerson on Hurumzi in Stone Town. Evening rooftop dinner above the old Omani quarter.

• Day 8 Stone Town

  Carved doors and clove country

  Morning heritage walk through Stone Town, the Old Fort, the House of Wonders exterior and Darajani market. Afternoon spice farm at Kizimbani, tasting clove, nutmeg, vanilla and cardamom at source.

• Day 9 Mnemba Atoll

  Fifteen strokes to the reef

  Drive 90 minutes north-east, then boat transfer to andBeyond Mnemba Island, twelve bandas on a private atoll. Afternoon snorkel on the house reef, green turtle and reef shark common.

• Day 10 Mnemba Atoll

  Dive, or do nothing

  Dives on the Kichwani and Wattabomi walls, or a dhow sail at sunset. Optional day trip south to Mtende beach and the Kizimkazi dolphin coast, roughly 90 minutes by road.

• Day 11 Departure

  Boat, road and international

  Boat back to Mnemba jetty, road transfer 90 minutes to Zanzibar International. Direct international departures, or a 20-minute hop to Dar es Salaam for wide-body connections.

What the price actually covers.

From USD 16,940 per person sharing. Permits, park fees and charter legs are inside that number, not added at the end. International flights and visas are not.

• Serengeti park fees, concession fees and 18% VAT

• Balloon flight with the TANAPA ballooning concession fee included

• Coastal and Auric Air charters including Kogatende direct to Zanzibar

• Private guide and sole-use vehicle for all Serengeti days

• Mnemba Island marine reserve levy, snorkelling and dhow sailing